Old fashioned dishes





_To make a Savory Dish of Veal._

Cut some large scallops from a leg of veal, spread them on a dresser, dip them in rich egg batter; season them with gloves, mace, nutmeg and pepper beaten fine: make force-meat with some of the veal, some beef suet, oysters chopped, sweet herbs shred fine, strew all these over the scollops, roll and tie them up, put them on skewers and roast them. To the rest of the force-meat add two raw eggs, roll them in balls and fry them. Put them into the dish with the meat when roasted; and make the sauce with strong broth, an anchovy or a shallot, a little white wine and some spice. Let it stew, and thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour the sauce into the dish, lay the meat in with the force-meat balls, and garnish with lemon.

_Lamb's Kidneys, au vin._

Cut your kidneys lengthways, but not through, put 4 or 5 on a skewer, lay them on a gridiron over clear, lively goals, pouring the red gravy into a bowl each time they are turned, five minutes on the gridiron will do. Take them up, cut them in pieces, put them into a pan with the gravy you have saved, a large lump of butter, with pepper, salt, a pinch of flour, glass of Madeira (champagne is better), fry the whole for two minutes, and serve very hot.

_Breast of Veal' glacee._

Cut your breast as square as possible, bone it and draw the cut pieces together with a thread; put it into a pan with a ladle of veal bouillon, cover it with slices of salt pork and a buttered paper, previously adding 2 carrots in bits, 4 onions in slices, 2 bay leaves, 2 gloves, pepper and salt; put some coals on the lid as well as below; when two-thirds done take out the vegetables, reduce your gravy to jelly, turn your meat and set on the cover till done, it takes in all two hours and a half over a gentle fire.

_Shoulder en Galatine._

Bone a fat, fleshy shoulder of veal, cut off the ragged pieces to make your stuffing, viz., 1 pound of veal to 1 pound of salt pork minced extremely fine, well seasoned with salt, pepper, spices, and mixed with 3 eggs, spread a layer of this stuffing well minced over the whole shoulder to the depth of an inch; over this mushrooms, slips of bacon, slices of tongue, and carrots in threads, cover this with stuffing as before, then another layer of mushrooms, bacon, tongue, etc., when all your stuffing is used, roll up your shoulder lengthways, tie it with a thread, cover it with slips of lardine and tie it up in a clean white cloth, put into a pot the bones of the shoulder, 2 calves-feet, slips of bacon, 6 carrots 10 onions, 1 stuck with 4 cloves, 4 hay leaves, thyme, and a large bunch of parsley and shallots, moisten the whole with bouillon; put in your meat in the cloth and boil steadily for three hours. Try if it is done with the larding needle; if so, take it up, press all the liquor from it and set it by to grow cold; pass your jelly through a napkin, put 2 eggs in a pan, whip them well and pour the strained liquor on them, mixing both together, add peppercorns, a little of the 4 spices, a bay leaf, thyme, parsley; let all boil gently for half an hour, strain it through a napkin, put your shoulder on its dish, pour the jelly over it and serve cold.

_Shoulder of Mutton._

Bone the larger half of your shoulder, lard the inside with well seasoned larding, tie it up in the shape of a balloon, lay some slips of bacon in your pan, on them your meat, with 3 or 4 carrots 5 onions, 3 gloves, 2 bay leaves, thymes and the bones that have been taken out moisten with bouillon, set all on the fire and simmer for three hours and a half; garnish with small onions

_Sheep's Tongues._

Fifteen tongues are sufficient for R dish; waste and clean them well, throw them into hot water for twenty minutes, wash them again in cold water, drain, dry and trim them neatly, lard them with seasoned larding and the small needle; lay in your pan slips of bacon, 4 carrots in pieces, 4 onions, 1 stuck with 2 cloves, slips of veal, 2 bay leaves, thyme, and a faggot of shallots and parsley; put your tongues in, cover them with slips of larding, moisten the whole with bouillon, and let it simmer five hours.

_To make an Excellent Ragout of Cold Veal._

Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal will furnish this excellent ragout, with a very little expense or trouble.

Cut the veal into handsome thin cutlets, put a piece of butter or clean dripping into a fryingpan; as soon as it is hot, flour and fry the veal of a light brown, take it out, and if you have no gravy ready put a pint of boiling water into the fryingpan, give it a boil up for a minute, and strain it into a basin while you make some thickening in the following manner: Put about an ounce of butter into a stewpan; as soon as it melts, mix with it as much flour as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you made in the fryingpan; let them simmer together for ten minutes (till thoroughly incorporated), season it with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wineglass of mushroom catsup, or wine; strain it through a tammy to the meat: and stew l very gently till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any ready boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and put it to warm with the meat.

_To make Veal Cake._

Take the best end of a breast of veal, bone and out it into three pieces, take the yolk out of eight eggs boiled hard, and slice the whites, the yolks to be cut through the middle, two anchovies, a good deal of parsley chopped fine, and some lean ham cut in thin slices, all these to be well seasoned separately with Cayenne, black pepper, salt and a little nutmeg; have ready a mug the size of the intended cake, with a little butter rubbed on it, put a layer of veal on the bottom, then a layer of egg and parsley, and ham to fancy, repeat it till all is in, lay the bones on the top and let it be baked three or four hours, then take off the bones and press down the cake till quite cold. The mug must be dipped in warm water and the cake turned out with great care, that the jelly may not be broken which hangs round it.

_To make Dry Devils._

These are usually composed of the broiled legs and gizzards of poultry, fish bones, or biscuits, sauce piquante. Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cayenne pepper and curry powder, with double the quantity of powder of truffles; dissect a brace of woodcocks rather under roasted, split the heads subdivide the wings, etc., etc., and powder the whole gently over with the mixture, crush the trail and brains along with the yolk of a hard boiled egg, a small portion of pounded mace, the grated peel of half a lemon and half a spoonful of soy, until the ingredients be brought to the consistence of a fine paste; then add a tablespoonful of catsup, a full wineglass of Madeira and the juice of two Seville oranges; throw the sauce along with the birds into a stew-dish, to be heated with spirits of wine; cover close up, light the lamp and keep gently simmering, and occassionally stirring until the flesh has imbibed the greater part of the liquid. When it is completely saturated, pour in a small quantity of salad oil stir all once more well together, put out the light and serve it round instantly.

_To make an Olio._

Boil in a broth pot a fowl, a partridge, a small leg of mutton, five or six pounds of large slices of beef and a knuckle of veal, soak all these without broth for some time, turn the meat to give it a good color, and add boiling water, when it has boiled about an hour, add all sorts of best broth herbs; this broth, when good, is of a fine brown color.

_To make Beef a la Mode._

Take 11 pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod of beef; cut it into pieces of 3 or 4 ounces each put 2 or 3 large onions and 2 ounces of beef dripping into a large, deep stewpan; as soon as it is quite hot flour the meat and put it into the stew pan; fill it sufficiently to cover the contents with water and stir it continually with a wooden spoon when it has been on a quarter of an hour, dredge it with flour, and keep doing so till it has beef stirred as much as will thicken it, then cover it with boiling water. Skim it when it boils and put in 1 drachm of black ground pepper, 2 of all spice and 4 bay leaves; set the pan by the sic' of the fire to stew slowly about 4 hours. This is at once a savory and economical dish.

_Beef a la Mode._

Take out the bone from a round and with a sharp knife cut many deep incisions in the meat Then wash and season well with salt and pepper. Crumb the soft part of a loaf of bread, to which add one teaspoonful of sweet marjoram, the same of sweet basil, one small onion minced fine, two or three small blades of mace finely powdered with sufficient salt and pepper to season it. Rub all well together with five ounces of fresh butter. Mix all these ingredients well together. With this dressing fill all the incisions and fasten well with skewers. Tie a piece of tape round the meat to keep it in shape. Cut 3 or 4 thin slices of pickled pork, which place in a large stewkettle with 3 half-pints of water; put in the meat, stick 6 or 8 gloves over the top, cover the kettle very close and set it in a quick oven. It will take several hours to cook, as it requires to be well done. When sufficiently cooked place it on a heated dish remove the pork from the kettle, and, if not sufficient gravy, add a little boiling water and dredge in sufficient flour to make the gravy of a proper thickness; then stir in 1 dessertspoonful of sugar browned a very dark color, and season to taste. As soon as it comes to a boil add 1 gill of Madeira wine. After letting it simmer a short time put it in a sauce tureen, remove the skewers and tape from the meat, pour over the top 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of gravy and send all to table hot.

_Bouillon Matelotte_

Peel a handful of small onions, fry them in butter till they are of alight brown, throw in a handfull of flour, shake the pan well, add a glass of red wine, a pint of (bouillon) mace, salt, pepper, thyme and 2 bay leaves, bubble the whole gently till the onions are tender, and pour it over slices of cold bouilli. Set all in a saucepan well covered on hot ashes, to stand for 15 minutes. Take care it does not boil.

_Beef en Daube._

Prepare a round or rump as for beef a 1a mode, well larded with the largest needle; put it into your pot with a spoonful of lard. Set the pot on hot goals, dust it with flour, turn your beef till it is well browned on both sides, have ready a kettle of bulling water, cover your meat, add in bits 6 large onions, 2 bunches of carrots and an egg plant in slices. Put on your lid and bubble slowly but steadily for 4 hours (for 16 pounds of beef longer if heavier) or till the skewer will pass easily into it. About half an hour before serving throw in a pint of smell mushrooms, season with pepper and salt, a dozen bay leaves and all kinds of spice. Set your beef in a deep dish and cover with the sauce.

_Beef's Tongue aux Champignons._

Wash your tongue well and boil for half an hour; season some larding with salt, pepper, all kinds of spice, shallots and chopped parsley; lard your tongue across; put it in a stewpan with a few slices of bacon and beef, carrots, onions, thyme, 3 bay leaves, 3 cloves; cover with bouillon and stew very gently for 4 hours: when done, skin your tongue and cut it up lengthways in the middle and under part, but not through, so that you can bend it up and lay it on your dish in the shape of a heart. Have ready a quantity of button mushrooms fried in butter, with a sprinkle of lemon juice moistened with boullion, and bubbled to & proper consistency. Pour it over your tongue and serve hot.

_Fish en Matelotte._

Almost every kind of fish answers for this dish. Scale, clean and cut them in pieces, put them into a pan with a handful of small onions previously fried whole in butter, two bay leaves, a bunch of shallots and parsley, small mushrooms, thyme, salt and pepper, pour over the whole as much red wine as will cover it; set your pan on a quick fire; when the wine is one-half gone, mix a spoonful of flour with a lump of butter roll it in little balls and put them one by one into your sauce, stirring it the whole time. Arrange your fish handsomely on a deep dish, pour over it the sauce and garnish with slices of lemon.





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