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When we get along into April we'll actually start a little National Forest of our own, with Forest-Rangers and headquarters at Washington and everything; and now, in the fall, is the time to get ready for it by collecting and properly storing the seeds. Seeds must be collected chiefly by hand-picking, although those which fall readily with wind and frost, such as Honey-Locust seeds, Acorns, Hickory-Nuts, Walnuts, and Butternuts, may be gathered from the ground after they have fallen. It is the smaller, thin coated seeds, such as those of the Maple, Box-Elder, Ash, and Elm, that should be picked from the tree or collected from the ground very soon after they have fallen. Since the first seeds which fall are apt to be sterile, owing to the fact that they fell prematurely, it is better to collect the later seeds. Thick hulls, like those of the Walnuts and Hickory-Nuts, should be dried and removed and the nuts spread out to dry in some cool, airy place. Pulpless pods, like those of the Black Locust, may be dried and the seeds threshed out with a flail. Acorns of Burr-Oak, and of several other species of Oak, which are hard to get out of their cups, may be left in storage with their cups attached. Nearly all seeds should be dried slightly, to prevent moulding, before being stored for the winter. During this time they should be examined frequently for signs of moulding or of too much drying. If they are moulding, spread them out in thinner layers. If they are drying too much, you can tell by cutting into some of them. If the kernels are shrinking, cover your seeds with some sand or chaff. Acorns and other nuts are best stored during the winter by being buried in sand in a pit on raised ground so as to insure drainage. The sides of the pit should be lined with boards or stones to keep out mice and squirrels. Cover the bottom with a layer of clean sand two or three inches deep. On this spread a layer of the nuts, then another layer of sand, and so on until all the seeds are stored. Then cover the whole with earth to a depth of from four to six inches, and roof it with boards or shingles to prevent washing by rains. Any ordinary freezing during the winter will not damage the seed but rather aid in opening the hard shells, thus helping along the germination in the spring. Alternate freezing and thawing, however, is liable to kill the seeds; and seeds which have been frozen should be planted immediately on being removed from storage. Another good way to store nuts for seed is to mix them with a small quantity of dry chaff or straw and put them in a closely covered wooden box; then set the box in a previously prepared hole to within a few inches of the top and heap earth over it and "roof" it, as already described. And don't forget that this storage-place also should be on elevated ground. This way of storing is somewhat simpler than the other and is especially suitable for the Southern States, where, during mild winter weather, the nuts are liable to sprout if buried in sand. Seeds like those of the Mulberry, Catalpa, Osage Orange, and a few others may be kept in good condition by being placed in sacks hung in a cool, dry place, away from danger of injury by rats and mice. All of which, as you may have noticed, is going to mean quite a little work and exercise of the wits, but this, of course, is the fun of it! |
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